Thursday, September 15, 2011

First Things First...Flores!


So here I am again, back in Indonesia. Now currently back in Borneo, having been in limbo the past week, waiting to get to the forest. And the time has come for I depart tomorrow morning!

The new jungle stories have yet to take place, but when I'm in touch with civilization again, early November, I'm sure there will be some worthy moments to delight your eyes and ears.

For now, the few words I have to share are of my mini trip to the island of mini people (that is, where the 'Hobbit' or Homo florensiensis discovered) , Oh Flores Island.

Since life can change directions so quickly, plans a-changed and I found myself on a 50-seater plane heading towards the smallest airport I've been to yet (as the Australian mother of her 4-ish year old son told him when he said "Wow, this must be the smallest airport in the world!")
And there I was dropped of, Labuan Bajo in West Flores, waiting for my friend Meret (who has been living and working in East Flores the past 3 months with another 8 to go) and her manboy to pick me up (her term) Sui. With 6 days ahead of no plans but certain desires to be in the warm soothing sea and catch some Komodo dragon sightings, there certainly was a lot more than expected which I find is how things tend to work out.

And there was more than one surprise, both good and bad.
But because of lack of internet connection, I will be brief. Please do enquire for details.



To truly experience my time in Flores I had to transform, perhaps some would say de-evolve into...


Homo z. florensiensis


Our first day out on the sea to find a good snorkel spot and that it was. Amazing. Beautiful coral and fish of every color and size and as Meret continued to say, calls to mind Sebastian singing "under the sea.." I first had a hula song in my head I learned in Maui, "..and all the little fishies come swimming to me.." Good times.

We ended up going snorkeling 3 days in a row and in those days it became such a routine. Go to Bapak Snorkel for our gear, walk the local paths behind houses to the dock, bargain for a boat and glide across the crystalline water to our destination.


This ride brought us to a unexpected twist of reality. It was Idul Fitri, the holiday at the end of Ramadan when the fast is broken and friends and families go from house to house greeting one another, asking for and receiving forgiveness. This particular family offered to drop us off at a little island on the way to another larger little island.
Nusa Tenggara Timor, the most eastern region of Indonesia is crowded with islands and you really start to understand that there are indeed around 17,000 islands in Indonesia, hard to comprehend when you are in the middle of the jungle in Borneo.

Before we arrive at the island, we can see that there are festivities going on from the amount of people, smoke from fires and loud music set up from generators and so decide to avoid that scene of mostly males on their way to inebriation. Wading around the corner we find a more secluded spot and jump in the water. Some time later, as I'm resting in the shade, I smell something burning and mumble "damn, they're burning garbage." And moments later I hear loud voices of commotion going on and look up the hillside and it is ON FIRE. Yep, the geniuses started a wildfire, the whole island IN FLAMES. I on first reaction, start to freak out a bit, head for the water, and a boat picking up women and girls that couldn't swim, came towards us and next thing I know a grandmother is tugging me in.

While the island continued to burn, we were transferred from one boat to the other. I was in a somber type of shock in disbelief that this little island was burning before my eyes, thinking of the lizards running for their lives. But there was joy in this tragedy, where boys of all ages will be boys, putting on shows for the bule girls. I especially enjoyed the name of this boat, thinking of my mother, and was intrigued by what it said to offer. Meret had the pleasure to adventure aboard later on after I left.

Sleepy dragons lazin' in the shade on Rinca Island, in Komodo National Park

Looking out from a tiny island, Tetawa kecil, in Komodo National Park


Sunned and salted to the perfect degree of happiness


Ray Rock
Sting Rays...that was the most exotic thing (to my knowledge) that I saw in these waters. Fast and shy, I saw just a glimpse of bluish body with purple spots and that long spike of a tail.

Our last night, we were invited to the home of Pak John and his family, the same that gave us a ride the island burn day. Hospitality is most definitely a forte' of Indonesians, welcoming complete strangers into their home as their own and then baring gifts of komodo dragon bracelets. Such generosity.
Earlier that day, we hired Captain Pak John and his crew to take us back to our first snorkel spot. That afternoon, again resting in the shade, I was given another blow, this time one of a philosophical, intellectual sort as Pak John incited a discussion essentially about life and what we both agreed upon is the necessity to make more decisions from the heart and that we must continue to learn throughout our lives and to then share such wisdom.
And that's where I'll leave my time in Flores.



The most exciting thing about Palangkaraya were these super exotic fruits found only in this area. Fikty had hired a taksi (those mini buses I'm sure I told you about and I'm sure my dad would love to tell you more about) for the day and she remembered these fruits that she tried here 5 years earlier and so the driver new a spot where we could find some. I had to stay in the vehicle for fear that a bule (white person) may raise the price or make the chance of bargaining impossible. I laughed in agreement and held down the fort.

This one is similar to durian though not as pungent and so less of an intense experience in general

And this one, well I enjoyed it



And off I go into the Jungle until I come out again in November, my hopes as some form of forest creature.

My love to you all.